Shoe-sewing machine.



N0. 7|0,6|2. Patented Det. 7, |902.`

E. P. RICHARDSON. s'HoE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led June '21, 1900. Renewed Jui. 20, 1902.)

7 Shee-ts-Sheat l.

(lo Model.)

THE Nams Perses co., Frama-wma, wAsnmvGYoN. D. cv

SHOE SEWING MACHINE;

(Appl'zation led June 21., 1900. Renewed Jan. 20, 1902.)

(No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 2.

4TN: Hemus 'persas wncrroLrHo.. wAsNgmmm. n. c.

H0. 7|0,6|2. Patented Oct. 7, |902.

E. P. RICHARDSON.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE,

(Application filed June 21, 1900. v Renewed Jan. 20, 1902,)

'am mmm 7 sheets-sheet s.

@ lidi/ENTE@ 1HE Nonms PEYEHS nu, PHcraLnHoJvwAsHmsroN, u, c.

Nn. 7|u,6|2. Patented ont. 7, |902. E. P. mcHAnnsoN.

s'HoE sewms MACHINE.

(Applextion led June 21, 1900. Renewed Jan'. 20,l 1902.)

(un maar.) `1 sheen-sheet 4. I

m: Nonmycrnm cov. Pnomumo.. wwpmon, p. c.

Patented Oct. 7, [902.

7 Sheets-Sheet 5.

(No Model.)

TH: Namps PETERS oo.. mmaumo., wAsHmaToN u c 2. D m 7, c nu d e n e t a.P

L N m 0H SC DA DnMA A HM Cm RE DMS EH S W. 6 m 7 nm N (Application filedJune 21, 1900. Renewed Jan. 20, 1902.)

.7 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(No Model.)

UNTTnn STAT-ns PATENT OFFICE.

EVERETT P. RICHARDSON, OF LAWRENCE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALFTO JOHN H. RICHARDSON, TRUSTEE, OF LAVRENCE,

MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

srncrrrcn'rrcn ferm'mg pel-t ef Letters Patent Ne. 710,612, datedoctober '7, 1902. Application led June 2l, 1900, Renewed January 20,1902. Serial No. 90,475. (No inodel.)

l'b c/,ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, Evnnn'rr P. RICHARD- SON, of Lawrence, in the countyof Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines, of which the following is aspecification. l

This invention has relation to machines for sewing solesto the uppers ofboots and shoes, being more particularly related to that class known asMcKay sewing machines, in which the needle penetrates the sole andenters the interior of the shoe and a horn is introduced into the shoeto support the latter and to carry the complemental sewing mechanismwhich coperates with the needle in forming the stitches.

The object to be attained by the invention is the provisionof improvedmechanism-for automatically varying the length of the loops of thestitches in accordance with the variation in thickness of the work-ft'.e., the layers of material constituting the sole, the edges of theupper, and the insole. In the machines of this class as heretoforeconstructed the mechanism has not only been large, and thereforeoccupied considerable space, but the movements thereof havebeen such asto jar or vibrate the whole machine. Consequently a further object ofthe invention is the improvement and simplification of machines of theclass referred to in numerous respects for rendering them more compact,permitting the easy running thereof, and enhancing the efciency thereof.

The manner in which I achieve the objects specified and in what theinventionconsists will be hereinafter fully set forth, it beingsufficient for all general purposes to here state that the inventionconsists of a sewing-ma chine possessing certain features orcharacteristics of construction' and arrangement of parts as illustratedupon the accompanying drawings, described in the followingspecification, and particularized in the appended claims. I desire tohave it understood, however, that I am in no Wise limited to theparticular mechanism which I have seen fit to illustrate and describe,although said mechanism is the best embodiment of the inven vand 3.

A tion now knownto me, for itwill be apparent to those skilled in theart that the said mechanism may be Varied in numerous Ways withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope 'of the said invention.

Referring to the said drawings, Figure 1 represents in side elevation amachine embodying the invention. Fig. 2 represents a side elevation ofthe upper portion of the machine, which is mounted orsecured to thehead. Fig. 3 is a view of the same through the other side. Fig. atrepresents a front end elevation of the mechanism shown in Figs. 2 Fig.5 represents another View of the same with the parts in differentpositions. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the front end of the machine.Figs. 7' and S show the operation of the mechanism for varying theposition of the variable fulcrum for the needlebar. Fig. 9 shows thesleeve or collar on the needle-bar. Figs. 10 and 11 represent a portionofthe mechanism utilized for the automatic locking of the presser-foot.Fig. 12 represents a rear elevation of the upper portion of the machine,some of the parts being in section. Figs. 13, 14, and 15 illustrate aportion ofthe mechanism for starting and stopping the machine. Fig. 16represents an enlarged section on the line 19 19 of Fig. 1. Fig. 17represents an enlarged lsection on the line 2l) 20 of Fig. 1. Fig. 1Sshows in section lthe friction device which engages the needlebar.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates a standard having a suitable base2, the upper portion of the standard being'bent rearwardly and thenforwardly and dattened to receive the base-plate 3 of ahead which isbolted or otherwise secured-thereon. In the front of the standardprovision isl made for the reception ofa rotatable horn 4, in which'ismounted the usualflooper mechanism and other devices ordinarilysupported therein. I shall not attempt to describefthe mechanismadjacent the horn more than tostateY that the driven parts are operatedfrom a shaft 5, eX-

tending through the standard, as clearlyA plate 3 and the uprights 6 and7, in which IOC there is journaled the power or needle-driving shaft 8,said shaft projecting rearwardly 'to receive the loosely-mountedpul1ey'9.

Power is transmitted to said pulley by a belt 10, passing around apulley 12, rigidly secured to a shaft 13, journaled in arms 14 15,rising vertically from a bracket 16, secured to the base 2 of thestandard. Clutching mechanisms are inserted between the pulley 9 and theshaft 8 and the pulley 12 and the shaft 13, and I shall lirst describethe clutching mechanism on the shaft 13.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 1 and 16, it will be noted that theshaft 13 is longitudinally movable in the bearings afforded by the arms14 and 15 and that the pulley 12 is rigidly secured by a screw to theshaft. Loosely mounted on the shaft are two beltpulleys 16 17, to whichpower is transmitted from a shaft 18 by belts 19 2O and belt-pulleys 2122 on said shaft 18. The two belts 19 20 travel in the same direction;but the beltpulley 21 is much larger in diameter than that indicated at22, so that when the pulley 16 is clutched to the shaft 13 the latter isrotated at much higher speed than when the pulley 17 is clutchedthereto. To the outer faces of the pulleys 16 and 17 there are secureddish-shaped friction members 23 24, respectively, withwhich frictionmembers 25 26 may be engaged, according to the location of the shaft 13.The operative portions of the friction members 25 26 are shod withsuitable friction material, and said members are rigidly secured to theshaft, so that by moving the shaft to the right in Fig. 16 the frictionmember 25 will be engaged with the member 23, and if moved in the otherdirection the friction member 26 will be engaged with the member 24. Thefriction members may be constructed in other ways, if desired, althoughfor ordinary purposesI find the form illustrated and described to besuitable.

Between the friction members 25 and 23 I provide a comparatively strongspring 27, the ends of which bear against the member 25 and the middleportion of which bears against the member 23. This spring tends to holdthe members 26 and 24 in frictional engagement, and in order to overcomethe tension of the spring for engaging the members 25 and 23 there isprovided a bell-crank lever 28, fulcrumed on a stud 29, projecting fromthe arm 14. On its upwardly-projecting end the bell-crank is equippedwith a stud on which is journaled a frusto-conical idler 290,

adapted to be moved into engagement with the beveled face of a ring 30,secured upon the hub of the pulley 12 to move said pulley and the shaft13 longitudinally of the axis of said shaft. The bell-crank lever isnormally held in an inoperative position by a spring 31, (see Fig. 17;)but it may be thrown into operative position by foot-operated devices,including a foot-lever or treadle 32, a rod 33, and a clip 34,adjustably secured to said rod by a set-screw 35. The treadle 32 isfulcrumed upon a stud 36, projecting from the arm 15. The treadle may bedepressed to a considerable extent without swinging the bell-crank 28far enough to frictionally engage the fast-moving pulley with the shaft13, since the rod and lever are utilized for the purpose of starting themachine, as will be described. I provide relatively fast and slow movingpulleys, so that I may secure a variable speed in sewing. Hence whensewing around the toe or heel the sewing mechanism will be actuatedslowly, and while sewing along the shank or side I may throw thehigh-speed pulley into engagement with the shaft 18, so as to cause therapid actuation of the sewing mechanism at such time.

The two pulleys 16 and 17 rotate at different predetermined speeds,whereby the sewing mechanism is likewise actuated at dilTerent speeds,according to the portion of the shoe being stitched. This I regard as animportant feature of the invention, since it enables the operator tonote to a certainty the speed at which the mechanism is operating,thereby permitting him to guide the shoe accordingly, whether sewing atthe toe or along the sides. It likewise permits the operator to changethe speed of the machine instantly from slow to fast, and vice versa,during a single stitch with a knowledge of the speed to be thusinstantly attained without considering the movement or inertia ofthe-moving parts or waiting for the speed to change gradually, as wherethe ordinary speed mechanism is employed.

The rod 33 is pivoted at its lower end (see Fig. 17) to the treadle 32by a. bolt 361, and at its upper end it is formed with a head 37, asshown in Figs. 3, 13, and 14, which is utilized in the starting andstopping mechanism, which I shall now proceed to describe.

On the shaft 8 and adjacent the pulley 9 is rigidly secured a disk 38,to which a pawl 39 is fulcrumed by a stud 40. (See Fig. 12.) The pawloverhangs a ratchet-wheel 41, rigidly connected with the pulley 9, andtherefore loosely revoluble about the shaft 8. The pawl 39 is adapted tobe drawn normally into engagement with the ratchet by a spring 42,having one end connectedv to the end of the pawl and the other endattached to a screw 43. The other end of the pawl is projected a shortdistance beyond the periphery of the disk 38, whereby it is adapted tobe engaged by a pin 44, projecting from a stud 45 in the end of anelbow-lever 46, fulcrumed on a pin 47, projecting from a lug 48 on thestandard 1. One arm of the elbow-lever projects upwardly and the otherforwardly at right angles thereto, being provided with a notched clip49, with which the head 37 may be engaged. The said head 37 is providedwith two shoulders which are separated, so that when the treadle 32 isoperated the elbow-lever is likewise actuated; but there is a certainamount of lost motion between the head 37 and the clip 49. This lostmotion IOO IIO

permits the treadle to be depressed to throw in or out the fast-speedpulley without releasing the elbow-lever, as will be explained. A spring50 (see Fig. 3) is utilized to hold the pin 44 normally in the path ofthe end of the pawl 39. As long as the treadle is undepressed the pin 44remains in engagement with the end of the pawl and holds it free fromthe ratchet 4l, whereby the pulley 9 rotates without causing therotation of the shaft 8. vWhen the treadle is depressed, the pin 44 ismoved axially of the shaft 8 to release the pawl and permit it to engagethe ratchet 4l. The elbow-lever 46 is adapted to be held in aninoperative position by a locking-pawl 5l, pivoted upon a stud 52, anddrawn into engagement with the clip 49 when the latter is depressed by aspring 53. Said pawl is provided with a pin 54, with which a cam edge 55on the head 37 engages when the rod rises and releases the pawl from theclip 49 to permit the pin 44 to return to its operative position underthe impulse of the spring 50. In addition to the pin 44 the elbow-levercarries a spring-tensioned stop adapted to stop the rotation of theshaft 8. Said stop is indicated at 56, and it has adownwardly-projecting spring-arm 57, which tapers toward its end. Thesaid end is held between two pins 5S, extendinginto theupwardly-projecting arm of the elbow-lever 46. Said stop 56 when thesaid elbow-lever is in operative position extends into the path of astop on a disk 59, said stop being formed by cutting away said disk, soas to leave a shoulder 58X. (See Fig. l5.) When the shoulder 58 engagesthe stop 56, the jar and the reaction are both taken up by thespring-arm 57. XVith this description it will be seen that at theinstant the pulley 9 is unclutched on the shaft 8 the said shaft isstopped from rotation and that said shaft will be stopped after eachrotation unless the foot-treadle be depressed.

The separation of the shoulders on the head 37 permits the head to risewhile the lever is locked by the pawl 5l until the latter is thrown outby the pin 54, and hence the elbow is released very rapidly, and itquickly snaps into position in time to stop the machine at thecompletion of the stitch.

I propose to now describe the presser-foot, which is automaticallyadjusted according to the thickness of the work, and the mechanism forautomatically locking said presser-foot after it has been adjusted. Saidpresser-foot is indicated at 60 and is located above the end of the horn4 and a little to one side of the axis of rotation thereof. Saidpresserfoot is adjustably secured to a verticallymovable bar 6l, whichhas a downwardly and laterally projecting finger 62. The presserfoot ispivoted upon a stud 63 and is adapted to be held at any desiredadjustment by a set-screw 64. (SeeFigsZ and 4,) The bar 6l projectsvertically upward, and it is mounted in guides, being provided at itsupper end with a slot 65, through which a screw-pin 66 passes into abracket 67, boltedat the top of the upright 6. The lower end of said baris guided by a danged plate 68, affixed to the side of the base-plate.An adjusting-screw 69 (see 1fig. 4) is passed downwardly through the topend of the bar 6l, and its end rests upon the pin 66 when thepresser-foot is in its lowermost position. Near the bed-plate the bar 61is formed with a shoulder 70, and to the side of the bar above theshoulder there is secured a clip 7l, having a shoulder confronting thatat 70. Between the shoulders there is a space afforded for the receptionof a pin 72,103 means of which the presserfoot may be raised or loweredor locked in position, as the case may be. The said pin 72 projectsforwardly from an arm 73, which is rigidly secured to a shaft 74,journaled in bearings afforded by the uprights of the head. There is aspring 75 coiled around the shaft 74, with one end secured toacollar76,afxed to the shaft by a set-screw 77, and with the other end restingagainst the top of the bedplate 3, and said spring normally holds thepresser-foot downward, so as to rest upon the sole of the shoe on thehorn. Said spring, however, is not so strong but that it permits thepresser-foot to rise and fall according to the thickness of the work asthe latter is fed along, so as to always rest upon the top of the sole.The arm 73, from which the pin 72 projects, has a projection 7S in thepath of a lever 79, centrally fulcrumed upon a stud 8O and having' itsrear end connected by a rod Sl to a treadle S2, fulcrumed upon the studIOO 36, which projects through the upright l5 at the base of themachine. Nhen the operative depresses the said treadle 82, thepresserfoot is raised to permit the insertion of the shoe upon the horn.

The mechanism for automatically locking the presser-foot after thefeeding of the shoe comprises au arm S3, the hub 84 of which is rigidlysecured to the shaft 74. On its end the arm has a segmental extension85, as shown in Figs. 5 and l0. Loosely mounted on the shaft 74 is alever having two arms 86 S7, the latter being substantially parallel tothe bed-plate and being held down bya spring SS, coiled around a piu S9,passed loosely through the arm into the bed-plate. The end of the arm 86forms one jaw of a clamp, the other jaw being the end of a resilient orspring lever 90, fulcrumed upon a screwpin 91, passed therethrough intoa boss 92 on the arm 86. The segmental extension S5 of the arm 83 passesbetween the two jaws and is adapted to be clamped thereby when the lowerend of the lever 90 is moved toward the back end of the machine.

To cause the operation of the clamp, there is a cam O3 rigidly securedupon the shaft 8. Said cam has a cam-rim 94 and also a cam 95 with asingle depression 96. The cam-rim 94 has also a single depression, asshown in Figs. 10 and lll. A lever 97 is fulcru med upon a IIO stud 98,passed into a bracket 99 on the bed-v plate, (see Fig. 11,) and itprojects at an inclination across the baseplate,bein g equipped on itsend with a roller 100, resting against the cam-rim 94. Passed throughthe arm 86 is a pin 101, which rests against the side of the lever 97,and the other end of the pin is formed with a reduced end projectingthrough an aperture v102 in the lever 90 and with a shoulder which bearsagainst the inner face of said lever. The cam-rim normally holds theclamp in its operative position, and the lever 83 is released only foran instant, immediately after the feeding of the work, to permit thepresser-foot to rise or fall wi th the surface of the sole as thethickness varies, after which it is again immediately locked. The lever86 has a roll 103, resting against the cam 95, whereby the arm or lever86 is rocked to permit the feeding of the work. The lever 86 is rockedby the cam, after the clamp engages the segmental extension 85, forlifting the presser-foot to permit the feeding of the work, which takesplace again subsequently. The parts of the machine are so timed that theroll 100 enters the depression in the cam-rim 94 just as the end of thelever 39 comes to a pointI where it may be engaged by the pin 44,as shown in Fig.10,where upon the machine is stopped and the operative mayrock the part or arm 73 by means of a treadle 82 to raise the presserfoot. Through the arm 87 there is passed an adjusting-screw 500, whichbears against the bedplate, which may be locked in position by the nut501. This screw regulates the operation or movement of the lever 86,since it adjusts the roll 103 toward or from the cam 95, and therebydetermines the length of contact between the last-mentioned parts.Consequently it varies the extent to which the presser-bar is liftedduring the feeding of the work. According to this description l providea member which is positively connected to the presser-foot and which maybeclamped to hold the presser-foot against movement. The illustratedembodiment of the invention shows the member as consisting of two parts73 and S3, connected by a rock-shaft, the longer one of which is in thenature of an arm of a lever. The parts 73 and 83 constitute, as it were,the short and long arms, respectively, of a bell-crank lever, therock-shaft thus being a fulcrum or pivot. The short arm is connected tothe presser-foot, and the long arm is adapted to be engaged near its endby the spring friction clamping mechanism. The diiference in lengthbetween the two arms is an important factor in determining the forcenecessary to lock the presser-foot against movement.

That part of the sewing mechanism which is mounted upon the head andwhich I denominate the upper sewing mechanism comprises a needle, itsactuating mechanism, and a cast-oif. The needle is shown at 105, and itis clamped in the lower end of a vera corresponding extent.

tically-reciprocatory needle-bar 106 by a clamp 107. The barreciprocates vertically in guides mounted in the bracket 67 and in anextension of the bed-plate 3. The extent to which the needle-bar ismoved upwardly depends upon the thickness of the work, for the length ofthe loop is varied automatically by mechanism which shall be described.On the end of the shaft 8 is mounted a crank-piu or pitman 109, which isconnected by a link 110 with a lever 111, fulcrumed upon a collar 112,rigidly secured to the needle-bar. The lever being thus pivotallyconnected to the collar 112 permits a certainamount of lost motionbetween the pitman and the needlebar. The collar 112 is provided withtwo separate lugs 113 114, and when the link 110 descends the lever 111swings down freely until it encounters the lug 113 without eecting adownward movement of the needle-bar. The continued movement of the link,however, after the lever 111 strikes the lug 113 causes the downwardmovement of the needle-bar, and it will here be noted that theneedle-bar always moves downward to eX- actly the same point. The upwardmovement, however, is varied by means of the following devices:Fulcrumed upon a stud 115, passed through the upright 6, is a lever 116,having its end 117 projected forward into the path of the end of thelever 111. The lever 116 is fulcrumed between its ends, and its shorterarm 118 projects downward and rests against a hardened stop-bar 119,adjustably secured by screws 120 121 tot-he lever 73, previouslydescribed. Aspring 122 is attached to the shorter arm 118 and to theupright 6, so that said arm is always held against the end of thestop-bar 119. The lever 73 is adjusted automatically according to thethickness of the work by the presser-foot, as previously described, andhence the lever 116 is likewise adjusted about its fulcrum in accordancewith the variations in the work. The end 117 performs the function of avariable fulcrum for 'the lever 111 on the upstroke of the needlebar.The initial upward movement of the needle-bar may be caused by the lever111 engaging the lug114; but as soon as the end of the said lever comesinto contact with the stud 117 the fulcrum-point is immediately changedand the needle-bar moves still farther upward with a rapid movement. Thedegree of upward movement of the needle-bar varies inversely with theheight of the fulcrum 117 from the base-plate 3, as will be readilyunderstood, the arrangement of the levers 73 and 116 being such that asthe lever 73 is raised the end 117 of the lever 116 is lowered By thisconstruction and arrangement of parts the up-anddown stroke of theneedle-.bar is intermittent and not continuous-that is to say, the saidbar rests for a certain time at each end of its stroke. A piece offriction material 600 is inserted between the upper end of the bar andthe arm 67 to offer a slight resistance to IOO IIO

the movement of the said bar, whereby it will remain stationary at theend of its movement, as described. An adjustable screwpin 1G01 may beused to increase the pressure of the friction material against thehandlebar. (See Fig. 1S.)

The cast-off is indicated at 123, and it is secured upon the end of anarrow bar 124, slidably secured in a groove in the needlebar 10G. Atits upper end it projects from the slot, as shown at 125, and isconnected by a spring 126 with the collar 112. There is another collar127 around the needle-bar between the projecting end 125 and the top ofthe collar 112. Said collar is provided with an upwardly-extending arm126, which passes between the bracket G7 and friction material 129, heldagainst the arm by a clip 130. The needle-bar has secured to it a stud1311 a short distance from the collar 112, so that the cast-olf has acertain amount of lost movement at each reciprocation of the needle-bar.The cast-off performs the ordinary function accomplished by suchdevices, and it is properly timed, as will be subsequently described.

The feeding mechanism comprises a point 131, secured in an arm 134,connected by a stud 132 with the lower end of a bar 133. The arm andpoint are free to swing upwardly on the reverse lateral movement of thebar, but are held against so doing during the forward movement by a pin135 engaging a shoulder at the lower extremity of said bar 133. The barhas an up-and-down as well asan oscillatory movement. At its upper endthere is a stud 136 passing through a slot 137 in the presser foot bar,said stud being equipped on its end with a roll 13S. There is anotherstud 139 above it, on which there is a roll 14:0, said stud 139 beingsecured to the presser-foot bar.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The operative having placeda shoe upon the horn after raising the presser-foot by means of thetreadle, as described, the presser-foot descends upon the work, thefeeding-point also engaging the latter. The point and the presser-footremain stationary while the needle descends, and the looper (not shown,but placed in the horn) carries the thread around it, the cast-olfmechanism following the needle until it strikes the work, whereupon saidcast-oif stops and the needle penetrates the work to receive the loop.As the needle rises it slides by the cast-off until the barb of theneedle is covered, and then the cast-off rises with the needle-bar. Justas the needle starts to lift, the presser-foot is raised slightly, andas the needle leaves the work the feeding-point moves forward. By thetime the needle has reached its highest point the feeding-point hasreached the limit of its travel. The presser-foot is let down by the camand is released by the locking mechanism to permit it to adjust itselfto the thickness of the work, said presser-foot adjusting itself atevery stroke of the needle, as previously described. The movement of thepresser-foot causes the adjustment of the movable fulcrum previouslydescribed, thus arranging for the length of the upward travel of theneedle f or the next loop. Immediately after Ithe presser-foot ispositioned itis clamped to form an abutment for the work and to hold thefulcrum rigidly against movement. The feeding-point is lifted out of thework and is drawn back to its first position, the needle now being atitshighest point, with the loop held in the barb by the cast-off. Vhen theneedle descends, the loop is held by the cast-od and the next stitch isdrawn up through it. The stop mechanism, as previously described, is soarranged that the machine stops after one rotation of the shaft 8 unlessthe clutch is held out of operation by the treadle. The cam 95 holds thepresserfoot raised slightly during the feeding operation to prevent itsdragging on the work.

It will be seen that I have provided a compact and easyrunning machine.The needledriving shafts extend longitudinally of the bed and inparallelism with the various rockshafts which cause or govern the actionof the other operative parts of the mechanism.

The movable fulcrum, with which the needle-bar is engaged or connectedonly during the upstroke thereof, and the greater part of thecontrolling mechanism therefor are located between the needle-bardriving-shaft and between the needle-bar and the upright on the bed. Theadjustable parts have means for positively adjusting them topredetermined position, and the whole machine is neater, more compact,and more efficient than those heretofore constructed. By the employmentof friction clamping mechanism I am enabled to lock the presser-foot atthe exact position to which it has been adjusted by the work without anylost motion. Consequently I am able to adjust the variable fulcrum withthe greatest accuracy for the length of the loop, a thing that has beenimpossible when positive mechanism, such as a pawl-and-ratchet, has beenused for locking the presser-foot after its adjustment by the work. ThisI regard as an important feature of the invention, for I believe that Iam the first to have employed friction clamping mechanism for thepurpose specified. In connection with the clamping mechanism it will beobserved that the lever 83, which has the segmental extension, is muchlonger than the arm 73, and hence I secure a greater leverage inclamping the presser-foot and attain a more accu rate clamping of thelatter.

I do not herein claim specifically the stop mechanism northe clutchmechanism, nor do I herein claim the automatic presser-foot mechanism,perse, it being set forth and claimed in my copending application,Serial No. 57,400, filed April 25,1901. So faras I am aware, however, Iam the first to have provided a machine in which the work-engagingparts-to IOO TIO

wit, the needle mechanism in the present embodiment of the invention-maybe driven at either of two predetermined speeds at will or in which astop mechanism is combined with a clutch mechanism and amanually-operated device whereby the machine must be started at the lowspeed and must be reduced in speed from fast to slow before thestop-motion can be actuated. The treadle which governs the stop-motionis connected to the clutch mechanism, and, as will be remembered, themachine can be started only at the slow speed, since the lifting of thefirst-mentioned part throws in the slow-speed pulley before thestop-motion is released.

Having thus explained the nature of the invention and described a way ofconstructing and using the same, although without attempting to setforth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modes ofits use, I declare that what I claim isl. In a sewing-machine, apresser-foot, and sewing mechanism including a driving-shaft, aneedle-bar, and means connected to and carried and supported by saidneedle-bar and controlled by said presser-foot for eifecting a variablemovement of the needle-bar.

2. In a sewing-machine, a presser-foot, a needle-bar, a needle-bardriving mechanism having an unvarying path of motion, and a membersupported upon the needle-bar and connecting the latter with the needle-bar driving mechanism, said member being controlled by saidpresser-foot for eecting a variable movement of said needle-bar.

3. In a sewing-machine, a presser-foot, a needle-bar, a needle-bardriving mechanism including a crank having an nnvarying path of motion,and a member mounted pivotally upon said bar and connected loosely tosaid crank, and controlled at its free end by said presser-foot to causea variable movement of the needle-bar.

4. In a sewing machine, a needle, and means controlled by the thicknessof the work for imparting a differential movement to the needle, saidmeans including a member having an arm, and a friction-clamp to engagesaid arm.

5. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a driving-shaft, a leversupported upon the needle-bar and connected to said shaft, and anautomatically-variable fulcrum adapted to be engaged intermittently bysaid lever to cause a differential movement of the needle.

6. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, driving mechanismconnected to the needle-bar, and means independent of the drivingmechanism for causing the movement of the needle-bar to vary in lengthfrom a uniform lower terminal of movement.

7. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, driving mechanism foractuating the needle-bar, and mechanism operating mediately upon saidneedle-bar at or :near the end of the upstroke of the needle-bar toincrease the said upstroke.

8. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted to theneedle-bar, driving meansV connected to said lever, and an independentfulcrum for said lever located to be engaged by said lever on theupstroke of the needle-bar.

9. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted to andcarried by said needle-bar, an automatically-adj usted fulcrum having anintermittent operative engagement with said lever, and driving meansconnected to said lever.

10. In asewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at oneend to the needlebar and projected laterally therefrom, stops on saidneedle-bar above and below said lever, and means for engaging said leveralternately with said stops to cause the reciprocation of theneedle-bar.

ll. In asewing-machine, aneedle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at one endto the needlebar, and projected laterally therefrom, a variable fulcrumwith which the free end of said lever may be engaged, and meansconnected with said lever between its ends for moving it.

12. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at oneend to the needlebar and projecting laterally therefrom, a variablefulcrum with which the free end of said lever may be engaged, meansconnected with said lever between its ends for moving it, and mechanismfor automatically adjusting the position of said fulcrum.

13. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a lever pivoted at oneend to the needlebar, and projected laterally therefrom` a projection onthe needle-bar below and in operative relation to said lever, anautomatically-adj usted fulcrum above the free end of said lever, adriving-shaft, a crank-pin on said shaft, and a link connecting thecrankpin with the lever between the ends thereof.

14. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar having a member, andautomatic mechanism including a variable fulcrum adapted to beintermittently engaged by the member on the needle-bar, controlled bythe thickness of the work for imparting a dierential movement to saidneedle-bar to vary the length of the loop, said mechanism moving saidneedle-bar to the same point at each downstroke thereof.

l5. In a sewing-machine, a needle, a needlebar, a presser-footautomatically adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the work,mechanism for driving the needle-bar, including a lever pivoted upon theneedle-bar, and having a free end, and a member connected to thepresser-foot, and adapted to engage the needle-bar lever and edect adifferential movement of the needle-bar.

16. A sewing-machine havinga power-shaft, a needle-bar, operativeconnections between the power-shaft and the needle-bar, for imparting auniform reciprocation to said needle-bar and mechanism independent ofand supplemental to said operative connections roo for causinga greaterupward movement of the needle-bar.

i7. Asewing-machinehavingapower-shaft, a needle-bar located above thework, operative connections between the power-shaft and the needle-bar,including a crank and pitman, and means for causing a differentialmovement of the needle-bar including a work-controlled variable fulcrnm,and friction clamping mechanism for holding the fulcrum in positionafter adjustment.

18. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a needle-bar', a power-shaft,connections between the said bar and shaft, a work-adjusted variablefulcrum independent of the connection between said bar and shaft, forcausing a movement of variable length of the needlebar, a clamp forlocking the fulcrnm, and a cam on said shaft for controlling the saidclamp.

19. Ashoe-sewing machinehavinga needlebar driving-shaft, a crankthereon, a reciprocatory needle-bar, a lever pivoted at one end on theneedle-bar and connected to the crank, and means whereby said lever hasa variable lost motion with respect to said needle-bar.

20. Ashoe-sewing machine having a powershaft, with a crank on the endthereof, a needle-bar, a lever pivoted to the needle-bar, a pitman-rodconnecting the lever with the crank, and stops for permitting lostmotion between said lever and the needle-bar.

2l. Ashoe-sewingmachinehaving a powershaft with a crank on the endthereof, a needie-bar operating above the work,con nections between thesaid crank and the said needlebar, and mechanism operatingintermittently on said connections to impart a movement of variablelength to the needle-bar.

22. Ashoe-sewingmachinehavingapresserfoot mechanism, a power-shaft, aneedle-bar operating above the work, a connecting -rod between the saidpower-shaft and the needlebar, and traveling in a fixed path, and meansbetween the connecting rod and the needle-bar and operatedintermittently by the presser-foot mechanism for causing theconnecting-rod to impart a movement of variable length to theneedle-bar.

23. Ashoe-sewing machine having a powershaft extending in a directionfrom front to rear of the machine, a pitman ony the front end of thesaid shaft, a needle-bar located above the work in front of the pitman,connections between the needle-bar and the pitman, and means governingsaid connections whereby a movement of variable length is imparted tothe needle-bar.

24. A shoe-sewing machine havinga powershaft, a needle-bar, mechanismfor driving the needle-bar, and means controlling the needle-bar only onits upstroke for causing an automatic variation in the said upstroke,said means being entirely independent of the mechanism for driving theneedle-bar.

25. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a shaft, a needle-bar, aconnecting-rod between the shaft and the needle-bar, a lever pivoted tothe said rod and to the needle-bar, and a variable fulcrum in the pathof the said lever.

2G. Asewing-machinecomprisinga needlebar, a power-shaft, connectionsbetween the needle-bar and the power-shaft including a lever pivoted toand carried by the needlebar and having a free end, a variable fulcruminthe path of the said lever, and an automatically-adjustable memberhaving an arm for adjusting the said fulcrum.

27. A shoe-sewing machine comprisinga needle-barlocated above the work,complemental sewing mechanism, a power-shaft, connections between thesaid bar and shaft, variable means for causing a differential movementof the needle-bar, a friction-clamp for locking said means andpower-operated mechanism for opening and closing the said clamp.

28. A sewingmachine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanismsrotating at different predetermined speeds, means for connecting eitherof said mechanisms with the stitching mechanism, and a manuallyoperabletreadle for actuating said means whereby the speed of the machine may bevaried on different parts of the work.

29. A sewing-machine having a drivingshaft adapted to stop at a fixedpoint in its rotation, means for stopping said shaft at said fixedpoint, stitching mechanism connected to and operated by said shaft, twodriving mechanisms rotating at different predetermined speeds fordriving said shaft, and manually-controlled devices for connectingeither of said driving mechanisms with said shaft and for causing theactuation of the stopping means.

30. A sewingmachine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanismsrotating at different predetermined speeds, and controllable means forconnecting either of said mechanisms with said stitching mechanism atwill, whereby said stitching mechanism may be driven instantly at eitherof two different predetermined speeds, combined with a stop mechanismadapted to stop the stitch mechanism at the end of each stitch.

3l. A sewing-machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanismsrotating at different predetermined speeds, and controllable means forconnecting either of said mechanisms'with said stitching mechanism atwill, whereby said stitching mechanism may be driven instantly at eitherof two different predetermined speeds, combined with amanually-controlled stop mechanism adapted to stop the stitchingmechanism at lthe end of each stitch or after the completion of a groupof stitches.

32. A sewing-machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanismsrotating at differentpredetermined speeds, controlling devices for thedriving mechanisms, a stop mechanism adapted to stop the stitchingmechanism at the completion of any stitch,

IIO

and a manually-operated lever having operative connections with thecontrolling devices and with the stop mechanism.

33. A sewingT machine having stitching mechanism, two driving mechanismsrotating at different predetermined speeds, a stop mechanism andmechanism whereby the stop mechanism is operable only when theslowerdriving mechanism is operative.

34. A sewing machine having,r stitching mechanism, automaticpresser-foot mechanism, lnwo driving mechnisms adapted to operate thestitching mechanism at either of two predetermined speeds, and a stopmechanism adapted to stop the 'st-itching mechanism at; the end cfastitch with Jhe needle raised and with the presser-foot on the work.

EVERETT P. RICHARDSON.

Vitnesses:

J. H. RICHARDSON, JOHN R. H. WARD.

